REGINA BRIOCHE WITH LEMON CURD

Leggi In Italiano

When we enter the bakery and leavened round (which in this way can already frighten hahhaha), there are many questions about the various methods and procedures that can make our leavened soft and long lasting. The most popular methods to provide a soft and fluffy texture to our leavened products and which, especially in this period, are depopulated on social networks, are above all two: the Yudane method and the Tangzhong method.

For the most part, especially for the “new landings” in this fantastic world, the Tangzong method, or what we know above all to be used when we produce Hokkaido Bread, goes above all. As always, I like to clarify and try to spread as much as possible a healthy and correct (as far as I can) information, but above all what I read around, what I learn at training courses and that, over the years I have tried . I liked something, something not, but from the best I try to draw some small lessons that I bring back to you.

So here’s a little clarification to shed light on confusion or uncertainty which of the two methods is the best to use. Honestly, I always prefer the Tangzhong method, for a matter of time and practicality, but I must say that the use of the Yudane method has not disappointed me. This is what I have learned so far, I hope it will be useful to you too.

Both Yudane and Tangzhong use a method to pre-cook a small portion of the dough by cooking or scalding it. Cooking the flour causes the pre-gelatinization of the starch. This makes the consistency of the bread soft and fluffy.

There are differences, however, between the two methods.

Yudane method:
Bread with this method is soft and stays fresh longer than most regular homemade bread.

1. The dough uses 20% of the total flour present in the recipe.
2. Flour and water ratio = 1: 1
3. Boiling water is used to scald the flour (instead of cooking it on the fire).
4. The blanched dough can be used only 4 hours later (minimum) or, even better, overnight in the refrigerator.

Tangzhong (Water-Roux) method:

From the courses with Cristian Zaghini, I learned that: this method allows you to bring water and flour to high temperatures, starting from cold temperatures, to reach an optimal temperature of 75 °. There is a pre-gelatinization of the starches and the compound takes on the typical gelatinous consistency. So what happens? By bringing the compound to high temperatures, it activates enzymes that transform a part of the starch into simple sugar that can be immediately used as a nutrient for bacteria and yeasts. It therefore improves the leavening and especially the lactic activity of the bacteria (especially if mother yeast is used, in this case).

At an organoleptic level, however, it is used as an improver for bread, to make it soft and long lasting. In vegan preparations, it is also often used as a substitute for butter.

1. The dough uses 7% of the total flour present in the recipe.
2. Flour and water ratio = 1: 5
3. Tangzhong is simmered until it thickens in the saucepan.
4. The cooked dough can be used after it has cooled down or you can even store it overnight in the refrigerator.

The recipe that I propose is not difficult, it only takes patience to respect the times and to prepare the lemon curd in advance, but, if you do not want to fill it with lemon curd you can use jams, chocolate creams and other fillings absolutely the same way.

I advise you, however, as the only thing, to work with fairly firm creams or jams, because the risk is to let out the filling, then going to “dirty” the final result.

The basis of the queen cake derives from the recipe for a sweet pan found on the blog of BAKE WITH PAWS, which offers a lot of creative ideas about Japanese breads, the Tangzhong and Yudan methods, and much more. It was adapted to my needs and slightly modified in the doses.

 

INGREDIENTS:

For the lemon curd (dose for about 3 small jars):

  • 180 g of granulated sugar
  • 90 g of cold butter
  • 3 eggs
  • 3 organic lemons (to be used both zest and juice)
  • 2 teaspoons of cornstarch / corn starch / rice starch

Yudane:

  • 140 g of Molino Grassi Multigrain flour
  • 140 g of boiling water

Preferment – 260 g total (1: 3: 3 ratio): *

  • 50 g of mother yeast (100% hydration)
  • 120 g of Molino Grassi Multigrain flour
  • 120 g of water

* you can also use beer yeast, if you don’t want to use mother yeast. For this quantity of dough I use no more than 6 total grams of brewer’s yeast. It ‘s true, the dough will take a little longer to rise, but you will not feel too much yeast smell (which I personally feel a little annoying). Remember, also, to add the water that you would have used for the preference, to your dough, to avoid having a stringy dough.

Brioche dough:

  • 100 g of brown sugar or honey
  • 500 g Molino Grassi Multigrain flour
  • 20 g of salt
  • 60 g of ointment butter
  • 140/160 g of whole milk (start with half the quantity, if the flour requires it, add the rest) *

* I always want to clarify the flour question: there are flours that require a higher quantity of liquids, so take as an indication ig of water or milk that I provide, they could vary by 20-30 g times, but also more, because I work with one type of flour, while you, you can certainly choose another. Don’t let yourself be constrained by the use of a single flour, experiment, but know that the quantity of liquids can vary!

Tools:

  • I used a 26 cm diameter pan

PREPARATION:

Lemon Curd:

Proceed in the preparation of your lemon curd the day before the preparation of your brioche, you will have a firmer lemon curd and certainly more manageable during the drafting. In a bowl, collect the granulated sugar, the lemon juice filtered from the seeds and its zest, the cold butter cut into cubes and the eggs. Only at the end add the two teaspoons of cornstarch. Beat everything with a whisk and cook in a water bath, stirring constantly for about 10 minutes over moderate heat, until the cream has thickened and veils the back of a spoon. The cream should not boil but only heat up to become a firm cream. Pour the lemon curd into a clean and sterilized jar, leave to cool to room temperature and then keep tightly closed in the refrigerator. This will keep it for 4-5 days, if you don’t want to use it immediately or if you want to use it as a filling for other desserts.

Yudane:
In a bowl, mix the flour and pour the boiling water with a spatula or spoon.
Close with plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Remove it from the refrigerator 30 minutes before use to return it to room temperature.

Prefermento:
One evening before preparing the brioche, mix all the ingredients in a jar and cover.
Let it ferment at room temperature, or at least at a temperature of about 25 °, overnight until it triples. For my condition, it took about 10-12 hours at home. The total weight should be about 290 g from what is written in the ingredients but a quantity of water will evaporate overnight, so you will find yourself about 260 g. Use them, right, 260 g.
Note: if you want to prepare the preferment on the same day of cooking, use the ratio 1: 1: 1. Let it ferment in our temperature until it triples. It can take 3 to 4 hours, depending on how strong your yeast is.

Dough:
Put all the ingredients (except the butter), including 260 g of preferment and all the Yudane dough in a bowl or in the basket of the mixer. Using the hook, knead for 3 – 5 minutes, until the dough is stringed. The stringing always depends on the type of flour you will use and also on the hydration of your dough. Only at the end add the butter and continue to knead for 12 minutes until reaching the complete stringing.
Let the dough rise in a warm place for about 3 hours (or in any case until doubled) in a large bowl greased with a little oil, covered with cling film or a damp kitchen towel. If the dough does not increase until doubling in size after this time, don’t worry, it all depends on the temperature you will have at home and the strength of your mother yeast.
When it has doubled, punch the dough to release the air (yes, it can be done and it is not mistreatment of dough hahahha). Transfer the dough to a clean floured surface, then roll out a rectangle approximately 0.5 cm thick. With a spatula, spread a veil of lemon curd over the whole rectangle and roll slowly. Let the dough rolled up and covered with plastic wrap in the fridge for half an hour. After half an hour, cut the roll into 6/7 slices and butter a 26 cm diameter round pan. Place the washers in the mold and leave it in a warm, dark place until the dough doubles in volume. It took more than 4 hours (for those who use mother yeast the leavening is slower, if you use beer yeast, it will be faster). To speed up the leavening process, place the dough in the oven with a bowl of hot water next to it and close the oven door.
Fifteen minutes before cooking, preheat the oven to 180 ° C.
Bake in a preheated oven for 50-55 minutes or until golden brown. If, halfway through cooking, you see that it is taking too much color on the surface, place an aluminum foil on the top of the brioche.
Remove from the oven as soon as it is cooked, and let it cool completely on the grill before slicing it.

 

Post in collaboration with Molino Grassi

12 commenti

  1. Ciao questa ricetta mi incuriosisce, anche perchè adoro tutte le ricette che contengono limone!
    io però utilizzo un lievito madre solido…rapporto 100 farina-50 acqua…cambiano le quantità ?
    grazie 🙏🏼 😉

  2. Ciao, grazie mille per la ricetta. La seconda lievitazione, ovvero una volta formate e posizionate le rondelle può anche essere fatta in frigo per tutta la notte? Che ne dici? Grazie!

    1. Author

      Lo si può fare ma si deve modificare quantità di lievito , che in queste dosi sarebbe troppo alta , rischieresti di perdere l’impasto.
      Tutto però dipende dalla forza del tuo lievito madre!
      A presto,
      Lucia

    2. Grazie mille! Un caro saluto

  3. Ciao, voglio proprio provare questa ricetta.. sto rinfrescando il mio lievito per averlo bello pimpante! niente uova nell’impasto giusto?

    GRAZIE MILLE E COMPLIMENTI

    1. Author

      Ciao Daria ,
      esatto, niente uova 🙂 Diventerebbe troppo pesante , dato che abbiamo già le uova della lemon curd!
      Baci
      Lucia

  4. Grazie mille! Molto interessanti i due metodi descritti. Il metodo Tangzhong l’ho provato per il pane di Hokkaido ed il risultato è strepitoso, l’altro lo sperimenterò di sicuro. Tu consigli il primo? Per il Lemon curd la scorza la grattugi? Bisogna poi passarla per ottenere un composto così liscio?

    1. Author

      Ciao Gisella ,
      si , il limone è da grattugiare. La crema non è assolutamente da passare, ti verrà così liscia se procederai attentamente seguendo le indicazioni scritte nella ricetta 🙂
      Baci,
      Lucia

  5. Bellissima! Non mi è chiaro come sostituire il lievito madre con quello di birra, in particolare quando dici “Ricordati , inoltre , di aggiungere l’acqua che avresti usato per il prefermento , al tuo impasto , per evitare di avere un impasto stopposo.” Cosa intendi? Quanta acqua dovrei mettere?
    Grazie

    1. Author

      Ciao e grazie!
      Quando preparerai il prefermento , andrai ad aggiungere al lievito madre una quantità di acqua e una di farina. Ecco, la quantità di acqua che c’è nel prefermento , come quella di farina , dato che non la userai per preparare il prefermento con lievito di birra , la dovrai aggiungere poi all’impasto totale , per mantenere un equilibrio di idratazione dell’impasto totale.
      Puoi anche procedere nel preparare un poolish con lievito di birra, è tutto a tua discrezione!
      Un abbraccio
      Lucia

  6. Meravigliosa!
    Sempre troppo generosa, sei una bravissima maestra. Adoro! 🤗

    1. Author

      E’ semplicemente il frutto di ciò che imparo e leggo in giro Erika! Poi lo provo , se mi piace , cerco di diffondere , se non mi piace archivio! 🙂 L’importante sono sempre le fonti , e citarle!
      Un bacio tesoro

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